Tobias Holzknecht | AUSTRIALPIN
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Tobias Holzknecht

Raised and living in the Tyrolean Oetztal, Tobias is a true kid of the mountains. During his school days he started to climb. Soon he joined a training group of the Alpenverein coached by his later mentor Hansjörg Auer. Several successful competitions later he discovered his passion for alpinism. Climbing partners like Alex Blümel and Hansjörg Auer have been invaluable companions. From 2017-2019 he was taking part at the “Young Alpinists” project of the Austrian Alpenverein, which ended in a successful expedition to North India. In the meantime, he is undergoing apprenticeship to become a UIAA mountain guide, finally making profession out of his passion.

Tobias Holzknecht

Family is: Support

My profession: Ski patrol, avalanche commission, emergency medical technician

My vocation: To help people in need.

Favorite season & why: Winter, because snow and cold temperatures make mountains even more interesting.

My discipline(s): All varieties of alpinism

The terrain where I feel most at home: Combined terrain and ridgelines

The terrain which challenges me the most: Valley floor 

Favorite place(s): The Oetztal, definitely.

What motivates me: The drive for self-fulfilment

I am scared: Not to realiue my own borders one day.

What a training week looks like: Difficult to tell. It is all depending on the kind of challenges lying ahead of me. 

Future plans: I´d rather be spontaneous. 

I am very grateful for the time I have been able to spend with Hansjörg Auer. He has been the one that awakened in me the passion for alpinism.

My Highlights: 

Rock: Red point up to 8b
           Onsight up to 8a
           Bouldering up to 8a
 

Alpine climbing:  Interail 7+/500m Heiligkreuzkofel, second ascent, onsight
                              First ascent Indian Himalaya, Ray Peak Massiv 3rd Pillar 5200m, 6b+ clean
                              Träumerei 6a+/200m Ötztal, Free Solo onsight
                              Eötvös 5-/800m Tofana, Free solo
                              Du&I 7a+/300m Reiserkogel/Ötztal, second ascent
                              First ascent  Indian Himalaya, Tororang (4470m)/Austrian Direct, 7
                              Many other classics in the Dolomites

Mountaineering: Aiguille Verte/Whymper Couloir, Chamonix
                             Piz Palü/Bumillerpfeiler, Schweiz
                             Zwölferkogel/Nordwand M5-/WI4, Free solo
                             Ortler/Nordwand 

Winter mountaineering: 3. Winter-Ascent of „Oetztal Traverse“ 
                                         From Gamskogel to Wilde Leck (2 days)
                                         Hintere Schwärze Nordwand Ski descent

Iceclimbing: Nordstau M6/Burgsteiner Wand (Ötztal), First ascent
                      Gegenwind WI5+/M8/Aschbach (Ötztal), First ascent
                      Nachtfalter WI5-/M4/Nösslach (Ötztal), First ascent
                      Milchschnitte WI6+/Habicher Wand (Ötztal)
                      Via Ali WI5-/Am Nittl (Ötztal), First ascent
                      El Nino M7+/Felbertauern (Osttirol)

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