What really counts
In my “sturm and drang period” I often climbed everything I could put my hands (fingers) on. Big names were important for me and the scarier to climb, the better. However, as I got older and also started a family, I got a bit pickier. The demands on the choice of the route changed significantly and by now, setting my own routes is one of the best things that climbing has to offer. Thereby, the whole process is important for me – from looking for nice walls and good rock to finding an interesting line, doing the first ascent up to eventually climbing the own tour. The best thing for me is when also other people climb my tours and like them.
Idea and execution
I got to know the Repswand in the North Tyrolian Karwendel mountains when I climbed two wonderful tours set by Reini Scherer there. In fact, Heinz Zak had already climbed some classic lines in the 80s at this spot, however, they soon fell into oblivion. Only later on, Reini Scherer brought this wall back to life with perfect routes with the best rock for repeaters with high demands. Thereby, this area offers the perfect conditions: an easy approach by bike (and then very briefly by foot), wonderful rock quality, the summer-suitable orientation of the wall and the great tours. Especially the route “Single Trail” is a real classic and is repeated frequently. However, the big unknown, the big slab, remained unnoticed and untouched. After perusing the wall, I just wanted to know more about it and to try my luck.
When it came to choosing a partner, my friend Klaus was the only one I could think of for this demanding project. We spent many beautiful days on rock together and also some in ice and snow – we just trust each other. Thus, we started this project in summer 2019. After three days of bolting we were able to finish the direct line from below and were really happy and satisfied with our work. However, because of the expected difficulties of the direct line, we right at the moment of rappelling decided to bolt a bypassing option “light” on the left (seen from the top). Unfortunately, we didn’t manage to start a first climbing attempt of “our line” in the same year anymore.