Gigantic lines are drawn through the impressive cave and many sinters are providing 3D climbing at its best. Quite possible that you are forced to climb not only horizontially trough the roof but even downwards at some spots.
You will not find any easier routes at «Cueva de las Grajas» apart from some routes along the water channels. But anyone who is feeling comfortably at grades 8a and plus will be happy with routes like: «Kallisté» (8c), «Salas» (8b+), «Orujito» (8b+), «Carbunco» (8c) and «Alpechin» (8c). These are the classics here.
Steep - steeper - Otiñar ... If you are really motivated, you can climb in the morning in Reguchillo (only a few minutes away by car) until your forearms burst and then see what your biceps is able to contribute in Otiñar. Because, located on the other side of the city, the imposing cave offers steepest climbing on sinter and good holds.
You can find the topo of Otiñar here: thecrag.com
My personal favorite so far is Villanueva del Rosario. There are now several sectors, of which the most impressive one is named "Chilam".
Here you can find "Chilam Balam" and "Planta de Shiva", two of the world's hardest routes. But even those who are not at home in grade 9b will find absolute king lines like "La Rubia" (8c+), "Mundo feliz" (8b+) or "Cenizo" (7c): up to 50m long, overhanging and interspersed with sintered boulder problems on ledges. But even the somewhat easier routes to the right of the big cave are - not quite as long and spectacular - by no means inferior in terms of rock quality.
Click here for the topo of Villanueva del Rosario: thecrag.com
Situated high above the city of Jaén, the narrow road winds along below the imposing rock face. The scenery has an almost alpine ambience, yet the approach is reasonably short for sport climbers with 2 - 20min. Once at the base of the wall, vertical to slightly overhanging ledge and sinter climbing on fantastic rock awaits you.
In spring and autumn, the cool temperatures in the morning offer optimal conditions, while in winter you can enjoy climbing in the winter sun.
All 250 routes in this area can be found here.
Andalusia is located in the south of Spain, bordering Portugal to the west and Gibraltar to the south.
The capital of Andalusia is Seville.
The very diverse climbing areas are ideal for anyone looking for variety on a climbing holiday: from the vertical walls and slabs to the overhanging and pushing walls with numerous caves and 3D climbing on sinters, Andalusia offers numerous opportunities for sport climbing.
So it is definitely worth thinking about a holiday now:
Because of the ideal climatic conditions, climbing is ideal from October to spring: daytime temperatures in winter are around 15 degrees.
A topo with all spots and climbing areas can be found here!