...In the shadows of Jirishanca, the Matterhorn of Peru...
In the beginning of June 2019, our journey to the Codilliera Huayhuash finally starts. After a long flight to Lima, the capital city of Peru, we take the bus to Huaraz. We run some errands and eventually reach Queropalca, the last civilisation on 4100m. Together with 12 donkeys, our cook and provisions for 3 weeks, we make our way to our base camp. We take a day off and start our journey to the foot of the mountain the next day. We are able to free-climb the first 120 meters and secure our 2 climbing ropes, everything is fine. However, the weather forecast predicts a week of bad weather. So we decide to change our route to the Codilliera Blanca, a day's journey away. There we plan to acclimate to be preprared for the summit. After a 10 ½ hour push and at -20 degrees, we are finally standing on the 6034m high summit of Tocllaraju.