And suddenly, the moment had arrived: mountaineer Martin Sieberer had completed his personal project, “by fair means.” Fußstein and Piz Badile in 23 hours and 23 minutes.
At 12.23 pm on Saturday 15 August, Martin Sieberer reached the summit of Pizzo Badile via the North Ridge, thereby completing the “Ridge2ridge” project solo.
With this personal project, the Austrian mountaineer set a new FKT in his attempt to climb two of the most iconic granite faces in the Alps, including the journey by road bike along the 273 km and 2,900 m of elevation gain separating Vals from Bondo, the two logistical base camps used by the 1988-born climber. Sieberer accumulated 6,700 metres of elevation gain during the attempt, taking into account the ascent via the standard routes on the two ridges.
It was a challenge that demanded great endurance, mental fortitude and organisational skills.
THE ASCENTS
In the early afternoon, Martin Sieberer set off up the Fußstein from the Geraer hut along the Nordkante, to avoid the crowds of tourists during the hottest part of the day. The unmistakable 14 pitches and 550 metres of climbing on the face (with difficulties up to V/V+) were completed around 3 pm, amidst smooth slabs and a constant search for grip. Just enough time to photograph the climb as proof, and he has already started downclimbing the south face, reaching the ‘Touristenrast’ car park at around 6 pm: the first point of arrival and, at the same time, a new starting point.
Although the next leg of the journey serves as a bridge to the second climb, it is not to be underestimated. Martin plans to reach Bondo shortly after dawn. Thirteen hours and almost 300 km in the dead of night between Austria and Switzerland. Here too, everything goes according to plan. From Innsbruck to Bondo Martin was accompanied by Max Dräger, who biked along with him and also documented the trip. Once past Innsbruck, with a stop at the Landeck service station, Sieberer and Dräger arrive in the Engadine, passing through St. Moritz and the Maloja Pass.
The journey allows Martin to recharge his upper body, although self-catering proves more complex than expected and opportunities to find refreshments are scarce.
Shortly after 7.30 he starts the ascent to the North face of Piz Badile. The North Ridge was first ascended in 1923 by the duo Risch-Zürche and has difficulties up to V+, 800m. The characteristics of the route and the rock are very similar to those encountered less than twenty-four hours earlier, although fatigue is starting to set in and reaching the summit requires an extra 200 metres of effort. However, his determination overcomes the heat of one of the hottest days of the year. A brief break at Capanna Sasc Furä, and by 10.30 it’s time for the final push.
There’s no shortage of difficulties, but Martin tends to downplay them by nature and by choice, without wishing to embellish the facts into an epic tale. The final ascent takes just under two hours. At 12.23, Martin reaches the summit of Badile!
The greatest reward? The chance to enjoy the summit alone, with views over the Val Masino, and the taste of that long-awaited pizza together with his friend and girlfriend.
