As soon as we step out of the airport taxi, we are hit by the hustle and bustle of Marrakesh: noise, honking cars, crowds of people, the smells of spices, exhaust fumes, and grilled street food – everything blends together in an orderly chaos. Cats scurry between the alleys, vendors call out, and above it all is the call of the muezzin. The hustle and bustle is omnipresent, but on the roof terrace of our accommodation, we find peace and quiet and look out over a sea of red houses and dusty alleys. After two days in this loud, lively city, we long for nature, silence, and adventure – it's time for what we're really here for: climbing.
Our journey takes us to the Taghia Gorge in the High Atlas Mountains. Even the journey there is an adventure: a seven-hour drive over mountains and through villages, past donkeys carrying loads and children waving and laughing. At the end, we switch to a jeep, stand on the loading area and rumble along a gravel road into the gorge – just as the sun is setting. The light bathes the rock faces in bright orange. We are speechless.
Our accommodation, the Gîte Taoujdate, is run by Saïd Mesaoudi – an incredibly warm host. There are three menus for dinner (lamb, chicken, and couscous), which change every three days. But they are super delicious – if not better than in many restaurants! Breakfast includes jams, Nutella, tea, instant coffee, cream cheese spread, and pancakes every day. You can get creative with the combinations of spreads – highly recommended: Nutella and apricot jam ;) And what was a real highlight were the afternoon snacks. Every day, when you were at home, you were served tea and bread with olive oil at around 4 p.m.
The next few days are a mixture of amazement, sweat, and rock. Even the first few tours give us a glimpse of what Taghia has to offer: endless walls, grippy rock, impressive lines, and sun—lots of sun. The “Widi Azry” route, a classic, remains particularly impressive. Hooks drilled at wide intervals, steep passages, and at the end, a summit overlooking the entire valley. At the top, we sit in the last light of the day, tired, speechless, and happy.
On other days, we change pace – a bit of sport climbing, rope technique, swimming in cold pools. Again and again, new moments arise that leave a lasting impression: the first sip of tea after the tour, packing the equipment together, cheering when someone returns safely from the wall.
Another favorite route: “Black Wolf,” a 7a+ directly above our accommodation. Technical, beautiful, with views stretching far beyond the desert landscape. The rock is perfect, the line logical, and at the end we sit under an old tree on the summit plateau and gaze silently into the valley. This is happiness in its purest form.
Between the big tours, we treat ourselves to breaks—yoga, stretching, card games, nibbling on dates. Even that becomes part of the experience. And again and again, those afternoons on the terrace when Saïd brings us tea and we just watch life go by in this secluded world.
Finally, we climb the “Enom della Reform,” one of the most famous routes in the valley. The rock is steep, the movements flow—until suddenly a hold breaks. Fortunately, everything turns out relatively well.
When we finally want to leave, a rockslide blocks the road. We shoulder our backpacks and hike out of the valley for an hour until the taxi takes us back to Marrakesh. The circle is complete – from the chaos of the city back to the tranquility of the mountains and out into the world again. Taghia remains – a place where you can experience rock, culture, and humanity with an intensity that has become rare. If you're looking for great multi-pitch routes and big walls, combined with genuine hospitality and a dash of adventure, you'll find your paradise here.
I know one thing for sure: I'll be back. Because there's still a hell of a lot of climbing to do.
Daniel Felsner
